Qutub Minar, Delhi

Lots of travel pieces claim that places are "studies in contradiction." In fact, I'm certain I've even used the line somewhere along the way. That embarrasses me now because when I read it in a magazine, I'm sure what will follow will be lazy and not very interesting. Of course places are full of contradiction. Places are filled with people and people are happy, sad, hypocritical, violent, peaceful, beautiful, hateful, funny, dumb, brilliant, and, most of all, complicated. Duh. 

Delhi is positively overflowing with people, not to mention the traffic, pollution, and filth--and the cows. So many cows. It operates on multiple levels, with the extremely wealthy and a wealthy-by-comparison middle class sitting atop the heap, with their maids and drivers catering to them round the clock and others in the merchant industry stopping by residential homes to deliver groceries or fresh flowers or take measurements for tailoring. Even doctors in India still make house calls. 

Usually, the best part of a city for me is the part that is alive and modern--the energy of daily life moving around me. But honestly all over India, that part was a bit overwhelming. Jakarta, a city that has found a home in my heart, has about 8 million more people than Delhi. It's also crazy and dirty and loud, but somehow it manages to feel relaxed. Not so for Delhi. People there are going somewhere, constantly in motion, working or shopping or eating while standing next to a stall in a street market. The ever present honking of car horns is something my nerves never got used to. Luckily, I found my escape, although it was hundreds of years in the past. 

Delhi has been through at least seven incarnations, and they all left something behind. I spent hours walking through the Mughal tombs of Humayun and Safdarjung, touring the Red Fort and Chandni Chowk in Old Delhi, wandering through the ruins around the Qutub Minar, and walking up and down relatively quiet, wide, tree-lined streets in New Delhi. The architecture is amazing. I am downright gobsmacked that such majestically gigantic structures could be built such a long time ago, without the modern technology that we've come to rely on. During the week, most of these places also have the benefit of being quiet, providing a peaceful break from the constant stress and noise of the rest of the city. 

Historical Delhi is beautiful and fascinating. I wish I could have been there to see it in person. Modern Delhi is a city I think I could get used to, if i had to, but, at least for now, I'll stick to the laid back happy vibe of Southeast Asia and just be grateful that I had an opportunity to witness the crazy, people-infested, developing India for a very short time. 

At the Dili Haat Market

A trip to India wouldn't be complete without mehndi.

Ghandi's Memorial

Humayun's Tomb

Inside the grounds of the Red Fort

Jalebis - My new favorite tea time snack